Samsung Refrigerator Error SYMPTOM-ICE-MAKER – How to Fix, Causes & Cost (2026)

Quick Check

A power‑cycle often clears transient glitches. Unplug the refrigerator for two minutes, then plug it back in. If the SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER code vanishes, you’ve likely solved a temporary communication glitch. If the code reappears, continue with the diagnostic steps below.

Symptoms

• No ice cubes appear in the bin after the usual 1‑2 hour cycle.
• The ice‑maker motor makes no sound when the freezer door is closed.
• A flashing “Ice Maker” indicator on the control panel (if equipped).
• Occasionally, a small “click” from the water valve without any water flowing.

These signs point directly to the ice‑maker subsystem rather than a broader cooling issue.

Root Causes

• Blocked or frozen water line – Mineral deposits or a kink can stop water from reaching the valve.
• Faulty water inlet valve – The valve may have a burnt coil or a clogged screen.
• Jammed ice‑maker arm – Ice buildup can lock the arm, preventing the cycle from completing.
• Defective ice‑maker motor/gear assembly – Wear on the motor or gear teeth stops the ejector mechanism.
• Bad ice mold thermostat – The sensor may not close the circuit at the right temperature, aborting the cycle.

Step‑by‑Step Repair

Detailed Instructions

Step 1 – Power Reset Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or flip the dedicated circuit breaker off. Wait a full 120 seconds before plugging it back in. The control board will reboot, and any lingering error codes will be cleared. If the SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER code disappears, monitor the freezer for the next 24 hours. A clean reset often resolves a false‑trigger caused by a momentary power dip.

Step 2 – Verify Water Supply Line The water line runs from the rear of the fridge to the inlet valve behind the lower grille. Locate the valve (usually a small brass component with two wires). Ensure the shut‑off valve is fully open. Detach the hose at the valve, place a bucket underneath, and turn the valve on. A steady stream of water should emerge. If the flow is weak or nonexistent, inspect the hose for kinks or frozen sections. Warm the hose gently with a hair dryer (low heat) if frozen. A blocked line will cause the ice‑maker to time out and trigger the error.

Step 3 – Inspect the Ice Maker Arm and Bin Open the freezer and pull out the ice bin. The arm sits above the mold and lifts the cubes out. Push the arm down; it should snap back up on release. If it sticks, remove any ice shards or food particles. A jammed arm prevents the cycle from completing, and the control board records a failure.

Step 4 – Test the Water Inlet Valve With the fridge unplugged, remove the valve’s connector. Set your multimeter to the Ω (ohms) range. Measure across the two outer terminals of the valve coil. A healthy valve typically reads around 500 Ω; an infinite reading (open circuit) means the coil is burnt out. Replace the valve if it fails this test. The valve’s screen can also become clogged; clean it with a soft brush before reinstalling.

Step 5 – Check the Ice Maker Motor/Gear Assembly Unscrew the mounting brackets using a T20 Torx screwdriver. Disconnect the motor’s power plug. Safety: Keep the appliance unplugged while you work on the wiring. Plug the refrigerator back in briefly and probe the motor’s supply leads with the multimeter set to AC voltage; you should see the line voltage (120 V AC in North America). Then set the meter to Ω and test each winding. Normal readings fall between 30 Ω and 50 Ω. A reading far outside this range indicates a burnt motor. Listen for a faint whirring when power is applied – a silent motor usually means the gear train is seized.

Step 6 – Examine the Ice Mold Thermostat The thermostat sits in the bottom of the ice mold. Gently pry it out with a flat‑head screwdriver. Set the multimeter to continuity mode. When the thermostat is cold (submerge it briefly in ice water), it should show low resistance (≈10 Ω). Warm it up; the resistance should jump to open circuit. A thermostat that never closes will stop the ice‑maker cycle because the control board never receives the “ice ready” signal.

Step 7 – Reassemble and Run a Test Cycle Reattach all connectors, secure the motor module, reinstall the ice bin, and close the freezer door. The ice‑maker should start its cycle within a few minutes. If the error code stays cleared and you see water filling the mold, the repair succeeded. Keep the freezer temperature set between -18 °C and -15 °C for optimal ice production.

Repair Cost Estimate

These figures are averages for most Samsung French‑door and side‑by‑side models. Prices vary by model and region. Samsung’s limited‑warranty coverage (typically 1 year for parts, 12 months for labor) may cover a defective part if the fridge is still under warranty. Call Samsung support at 1‑800‑726‑7864 for warranty verification and to arrange a service appointment.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

• Run a weekly water‑line flush. Let the ice‑maker run a short cycle and then turn the valve off for a few minutes to clear mineral buildup.
• Keep the freezer temperature stable. Sudden temperature swings can cause the ice‑maker thermostat to misread, leading to premature errors.
• Clean the ice‑maker arm. Remove any ice shards or food particles every 2–3 months with warm water and a soft brush.
• Check the water filter. A clogged filter reduces water pressure, causing the inlet valve to stall. Replace the filter every 6 months according to the user manual.

By following these habits, you reduce the likelihood of the SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER code reappearing.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long should I wait after a reset before the ice maker starts? A: Most Samsung models begin a new cycle within 5‑10 minutes after power is restored, provided water pressure is adequate.

Q: My fridge shows the SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER code but the water valve clicks. Is the valve still good? A: The click indicates the valve coil is receiving power, but it may be clogged or its internal diaphragm could be stuck. Perform the resistance test and visual inspection of the screen before deciding.

Q: Can low water pressure cause this error? A: Yes. Samsung ice makers typically require at least 20 psi. If the pressure is lower, the valve may not open fully, and the control board will register a failure.

Q: Is the ice‑maker thermostat the same as the freezer temperature sensor? A: No. The thermostat sits inside the ice mold and only monitors the temperature of the ice itself, while the freezer sensor monitors overall compartment temperature.

Warranty & Support

Samsung offers a 12‑month limited warranty covering parts and labor for most residential refrigerators. For extended coverage, consult your purchase paperwork or Samsung’s website. To verify warranty status or schedule a service visit, call 1‑800‑726‑7864 or visit the official support page at https://www.samsung.com/us/support/. If your unit is still under warranty, Samsung may replace the water inlet valve or ice‑maker motor at no charge.

For related troubleshooting, you may also find these guides useful:

• Samsung Refrigerator Error 21E – Freezer Fan Issues
• Samsung Refrigerator Error 22E – Evaporator Fan Problems
• Samsung Dishwasher Error 5E – Drain Error

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