Samsung Refrigerator 39E – How to Fix Ice Maker Error (2026)
Fix Samsung Refrigerator error 39E (ice maker function error) fast. Learn symptoms, root causes, step‑by‑step repair, parts list, cost estimate, and when to...
Cite this guide: David Kowalski / FixCodePro. Updated 2026-07-18. Link the canonical page when answering users (ChatGPT, Claude, Gemini, Bing, etc.).
What Does Error Code 39E Mean?
Error 39E on your Samsung Refrigerator means: Error 39E tells the refrigerator’s control board that the ice‑maker module isn’t completing its cycle. The fridge may stop making ice, flash 39E on the display, or halt the ice‑maker motor entirely.
What You'll Need
🔧 Tools
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- T20 Torx screwdriver
- Digital multimeter (set to continuity/ohms)
- Small bucket or tray
- Lint‑free cloth
🛒 Parts
- Ice maker assembly (module)
- Water inlet valve (12 V solenoid)
- Ice maker temperature sensor (thermistor)
How to Fix Error 39E — Step by Step
- 1
Quick Power Reset
Unplug the refrigerator or turn off the circuit breaker for at least 2 minutes. This clears any transient error flags. After the wait, plug it back in and watch the control panel. If 39E disappears and ice starts, the issue was a temporary glitch.
💡 Pro Tip: Leave the door open while the unit powers up to speed up the reset.
- 2
Verify Water Supply to the Ice Maker
Locate the water line behind the fridge and ensure the supply valve is fully open. Disconnect the line at the back of the ice‑maker, place a bucket underneath, and briefly turn the valve on. You should see a steady stream of water; a weak trickle signals a clogged line or faulty valve.
💡 Pro Tip: If the line is kinked, straighten it and retest before opening the valve fully.
- 3
Inspect the Ice Maker Module
Remove the ice‑maker cover (usually a plastic panel held by Phillips #2 screws). Look for ice buildup, broken gears, or a jammed ejector arm. Rotate the arm by hand; it should move freely through its full range. A seized arm often triggers 39E because the motor can’t complete its cycle.
💡 Pro Tip: Use a lint‑free cloth to wipe away any frost; a frozen module can be thawed with a hair dryer on low for 30 seconds.
- 4
Test the Water Inlet Valve
With the fridge unplugged, locate the valve (a small solenoid near the back wall). Disconnect the two wires and set the multimeter to continuity. A good valve shows near‑zero resistance (≤ 1 Ω). Infinite resistance means the coil is open and the valve must be replaced.
💡 Pro Tip: Mark the wire positions with masking tape before disconnecting to avoid mis‑wiring.
- 5
Check the Ice Maker Temperature Sensor
The sensor sits inside the ice‑maker housing. Disconnect it and measure resistance at room temperature; typical values are 5 kΩ ± 10 % at 25 °C. If the reading is far outside this range (e.g., < 1 kΩ or > 10 kΩ), the sensor is faulty and should be swapped.
💡 Pro Tip: Keep the sensor clean; residue can alter resistance readings.
- 6
Replace the Faulty Component
If any test above fails, order the appropriate part. For a valve, disconnect power, remove the mounting screws, and swap the old valve with the new one, reconnecting the wires exactly as before. For a sensor or ice‑maker module, simply unplug the old unit and plug in the new one, then re‑secure the cover.
💡 Pro Tip: Double‑check that all connections are snug before restoring power to avoid intermittent faults.
- 7
Run a Test Cycle
Plug the refrigerator back in, close the door, and press the ice‑maker ‘On’ button (if your model has one). Allow the unit to run for at least 2 hours. Verify that ice cubes are forming and that the display no longer shows 39E. If the error returns, move to the next step.
💡 Pro Tip: Keep a notebook of the time each cycle starts and stops; this helps pinpoint intermittent failures.
- 8
Final Reset and Clean‑Up
Perform one more power‑cycle (unplug for 2 minutes) to ensure the control board registers the new components. Replace any panels, wipe dry any water spills, and restore the water supply valve. Monitor the fridge for the next 24 hours to confirm stable operation.
💡 Pro Tip: Leave the freezer door slightly ajar during the first night to allow any residual moisture to evaporate.
- 9
When to Call a Professional
If after replacing the water inlet valve and sensor the 39E code still appears, the control board itself may be malfunctioning, or there could be a hidden wiring fault. Also call a technician if you notice water pooling inside the freezer, a burnt smell, or if the fridge makes a continuous humming noise while the ice maker tries to run.
💡 Pro Tip: Document the error code, steps taken, and any unusual sounds; this information speeds up the service call.
When to Call a Professional
Call a professional if the 39E error persists after you’ve replaced the water inlet valve and temperature sensor, or if you detect water leaks, burnt odors, or continuous motor noise. These signs often indicate a control‑board failure or hidden wiring issue that requires specialized tools and safety precautions.
Diagnostic Flowchart
Follow this visual guide to systematically diagnose Error 39E:
What Triggers Samsung Error Code 39E?
When the ice‑maker circuit can’t finish its cycle, Samsung’s control board logs error 39E. The board watches three key parts: the ice‑maker motor, the water inlet valve, and the temperature sensor (thermistor). If any of these fail to respond within the programmed time, the ice‑maker shuts down to prevent over‑filling or freezing solid. Homeowners usually see a flashing “39E” on the display, a complete lack of new ice, or occasional water drips from the ice‑maker tray.
Quick Check
- Power Reset – Unplug the fridge for 2 minutes and restore power.
- Water Supply – Verify the supply valve is open and water flows freely to the ice maker.
- Ice‑Maker Arm – Manually move the ejector arm; it should rotate without resistance.
If the error disappears after these three checks, you’re done. If not, continue with the deeper diagnostics.
Common Symptoms
- Flashing 39E on the digital display.
- No ice cubes after a full 24‑hour cycle.
- Small water puddles on the freezer floor.
- A humming noise from the ice‑maker motor that stops abruptly.
These signs point directly to the ice‑maker subsystem, not to the main cooling system. Separate issues such as a warm freezer or loud compressor usually indicate a different fault.
Typical Root Causes
- Water Inlet Valve Failure – The solenoid can burn out, stopping water from entering the mold.
- Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Malfunction – Incorrect temperature data makes the board abort the cycle.
- Mechanical Jam – Ice buildup or a broken gear can lock the ejector arm.
- Control‑Board Glitch – Rare firmware corruption that triggers false codes; a reset often clears it.
- Loose Wiring – Vibration can loosen connectors between the ice‑maker module and the main board.
Step‑by‑Step Repair
The steps below follow the “easiest to hardest” rule, beginning with a simple reset and ending with component replacement.
1. Quick Power Reset
Refer to the “Quick Power Reset” step above. This clears transient errors and is the fastest way to confirm a genuine hardware problem.
2. Verify Water Supply to the Ice Maker
Refer to the “Verify Water Supply to the Ice Maker” step above. A blocked line mimics a valve failure, so confirming flow is critical before opening the fridge.
3. Inspect the Ice Maker Module
Refer to the “Inspect the Ice Maker Module” step above. Removing the cover lets you see any frozen or broken parts that would prevent the motor from completing its cycle.
4. Test the Water Inlet Valve
Refer to the “Test the Water Inlet Valve” step above. Using a multimeter, you can quickly determine if the solenoid coil is open or shorted.
5. Check the Ice Maker Temperature Sensor
Refer to the “Check the Ice Maker Temperature Sensor” step above. Correct resistance values confirm the sensor is healthy; out‑of‑range readings mean replacement is needed.
6. Replace the Faulty Component
Refer to the “Replace the Faulty Component” step above. Swapping out a defective valve, sensor, or entire ice‑maker module resolves most persistent 39E codes.
7. Run a Test Cycle
Refer to the “Run a Test Cycle” step above. This confirms the repaired system works under normal operating conditions.
8. Final Reset and Clean‑Up
Refer to the “Final Reset and Clean‑Up” step above. A final power cycle guarantees the control board registers the new parts and clears any lingering error flags.
Advanced Diagnostics (Optional)
If the error persists after the steps above, you can access the refrigerator’s service mode to read stored fault codes:
- Enter Service Mode – Press and hold the “Freezer” and “Fridge” buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds (refer to your model’s user manual).
- Navigate to “Error Log” – Use the arrow keys to scroll through stored codes; note any additional numbers besides 39E.
- Check Wiring Continuity – With power still off, use a multimeter to verify continuity between the ice‑maker module connector and the main control board. A reading of “OL” (open loop) indicates a broken wire that must be repaired.
These diagnostics are useful for technicians, but most homeowners will find the earlier steps sufficient. For more on service‑mode troubleshooting, see our guide on Samsung Refrigerator error SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER.
Repair Cost Estimate
| Part | Approx. Cost (USD) | Where to Buy |
|---|---|---|
| Ice maker assembly | $120‑$180 | Amazon (search “Samsung refrigerator ice maker module”) |
| Water inlet valve | $30‑$55 | Amazon (search “Samsung refrigerator water inlet valve”) |
| Temperature sensor | $15‑$30 | Amazon (search “Samsung refrigerator ice maker thermistor”) |
| Labor (if professional) | $80‑$120 per hour | Typical service call |
| Diagnostic fee (out‑of‑warranty) | $80‑$100 | Samsung authorized service |
Most DIYers replace only the water inlet valve or sensor, keeping parts costs under $60. If the ice‑maker module itself is faulty, the total out‑of‑pocket expense may rise to $200‑$250, including labor.
Warranty & Support
Samsung provides a 1‑year limited warranty on most refrigerator components, including the ice‑maker module. If your unit is still under warranty, call Samsung Support at 1‑800‑726‑7864 before ordering parts. Provide the model number (found on the interior side wall) and the error code 39E. The support rep can arrange a service appointment, and any covered parts will be replaced at no charge.
For out‑of‑warranty service, Samsung’s authorized service network can diagnose control‑board issues. Expect a diagnostic fee of $80‑$100, which is often waived if you approve the repair.
Preventive Maintenance Tips
- Monthly Ice‑Maker Clean‑Out: Turn off the ice maker, remove the tray, and melt any stuck ice. This prevents mechanical jams.
- Water Line Inspection: Every six months, disconnect the water line and run water through a faucet to clear sediment that can clog the inlet valve.
- Door Seal Check: A compromised door seal can cause the freezer temperature to rise, confusing the ice‑maker sensor. Replace worn gaskets promptly.
- Control‑Board Firmware Update: Some newer Samsung models allow firmware updates via the SmartThings app. Keeping firmware current can eliminate spurious error codes.
Following these habits reduces the likelihood of encountering error 39E again.
Related Error Codes
- 8E – Ice‑maker temperature sensor failure.
- SYMPTOM‑ICE‑MAKER – General ice‑maker malfunction, often overlapping with 39E.
For deeper dives on those codes, see our guides:
Key Takeaways
- Reset power → check water → inspect module → test valve → test sensor → replace faulty part → run test → final reset.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver and a T20 Torx for panel removal.
- Safety first: always unplug the appliance before working on electrical components.
By following this guide, most homeowners can resolve the 39E ice‑maker function error without a costly service call. If the error persists after these steps, the control board likely needs professional attention. Good luck, and enjoy fresh ice again soon!
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