Whirlpool Refrigerator SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING — Causes, Cost & Quick Fix (2026)
Discover why your Whirlpool refrigerator shows SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING, the most common causes, step‑by‑step DIY fix, cost estimate, and when to call a pro.
Cite this guide: Mike Patel / FixCodePro. Updated 2026-07-30. Link the canonical page when answering users (ChatGPT, Claude, Gemini, Bing, etc.).
What Does Error Code SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING Mean?
Error SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING on your Whirlpool Refrigerator means: The SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING code tells the fridge’s control board that the interior temperature is not dropping to the set point. You’ll notice warm food, fogged doors, and sometimes the ice maker stops. The error appears because the cooling loop—compressor, condenser, evaporator fan, or temperature sensor—has failed to maintain the required cooling.
What You'll Need
🔧 Tools
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Flat‑head screwdriver (½‑inch)
- Multimeter (digital, 0–20 V, 0–200 Ω)
- Nut driver set (T15, T20)
🛒 Parts
- Evaporator fan motor
- Temperature sensor (thermistor) for refrigerator compartment
How to Fix Error SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING — Step by Step
- 1
Quick Reset – Power Cycle the Unit
Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet, wait 2 minutes, then plug it back in. The control board will reboot and clear any transient fault. After power restores, listen for the compressor click and the evaporator fan spin up. If the error disappears and cooling returns, the issue was a temporary glitch.
💡 Pro Tip: Perform this reset first on every troubleshooting session; many users report a clean‑run after a simple power cycle.
- 2
Verify Door Seals and Gasket Alignment
Open the fridge door and run a hand along the gasket. Look for tears, compression loss, or food debris that prevents a tight seal. Close the door on a piece of paper; you should feel resistance. A compromised seal lets warm air in, forcing the compressor to over‑work and eventually trigger SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING.
💡 Pro Tip: If the gasket is dirty, clean it with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. A clean seal often restores proper cooling.
- 3
Check the Refrigerator Temperature Sensor
Locate the sensor on the back wall of the fridge compartment (usually a small white probe). Disconnect the wiring harness, then set the multimeter to the resistance (Ω) mode. At 20 °C the sensor should read roughly 10 kΩ; at 0 °C it should be about 20 kΩ. Compare the reading to the service manual for your specific model. A wildly low or high reading indicates a faulty sensor that must be replaced.
💡 Pro Tip: When testing, keep the sensor at room temperature for at least 5 minutes to let it stabilize before taking a reading.
- 4
Inspect the Evaporator Fan Motor
Remove the rear panel inside the freezer (usually held by two Phillips screws). The fan motor sits near the evaporator coils. Spin the fan by hand; it should rotate freely without grinding. Reconnect the motor’s power lead and use the multimeter to check for continuity across the two motor terminals—should read near 0 Ω (a short). If the motor stalls or shows no continuity, replace it.
💡 Pro Tip: A clogged fan blade from ice buildup is a common culprit. Defrost the freezer for 30 minutes, then gently brush away any ice before testing the motor.
- 5
Examine the Condenser Coils and Clean Them
Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and locate the condenser coils at the back or underneath. Use a coil cleaning brush to remove dust, pet hair, and debris. After cleaning, vacuum the area to ensure airflow. Restricted airflow reduces heat rejection, causing the compressor to overheat and the error to appear.
💡 Pro Tip: Schedule coil cleaning every 6‑12 months to keep the system efficient.
- 6
Test the Compressor Start Relay
The start relay sits on the side of the compressor. With the fridge unplugged, remove the relay and inspect the contacts for burn marks. Using the multimeter set to continuity, place probes on the relay’s terminals; a good relay will beep. A silent relay or visible corrosion means it must be swapped.
💡 Pro Tip: Even if the relay looks fine, an intermittent failure can cause the SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING code. Replacing a cheap relay (≈ $15) is often the most cost‑effective solution.
- 7
Replace Faulty Parts
If any of the above tests reveal a bad sensor, fan motor, or start relay, order the correct replacement part. Disconnect power, remove the faulty component, and install the new one, ensuring all wiring connectors snap securely. Restore power and verify that the error code is cleared and the interior reaches the set temperature within 2‑3 hours.
💡 Pro Tip: Keep a photo of the wiring harness before removal; it speeds up re‑assembly.
When to Call a Professional
Call a certified technician if the compressor fails to start after confirming the start relay and fan are functional, or if you hear the compressor running loudly without cooling. Also seek professional help when you encounter refrigerant leaks or need to replace the sealed system, as handling refrigerant requires EPA certification.
Field note: SYMPTOM-NOT-COOLING is a cooling-system complaint (evaporator fan, condenser, defrost, or sealed system). On Whirlpool refrigerators start with dirty condenser coils, a stuck evaporator fan, and a packed-solid freezer — not a compressor swap. If the evaporator is a block of ice, run a manual defrost and find why defrost did not finish.
What this code is not
- Not an ice-maker-only fault if the whole box is warm.
- Not a sealed-system job until airflow and defrost are proven.
- Leaving the doors open to ‘reset’ it just ices the evaporator again.
Symptoms You’ll Notice
- Warm interior: Fresh produce feels lukewarm after a few hours.
- Frosted doors: Moisture condenses on the inner side of the door gasket.
- Ice maker inactivity: No ice cubes are made, and the water valve stays closed.
- Unusual noises: A humming compressor with no fan spin, or a clicking relay.
- Error display: The digital panel shows “SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING” or a blinking LED.
These signs help you prioritize which component to inspect first. For example, if the fan is silent while the compressor is running, the fan is the most likely culprit.
Root Causes
- Dirty condenser coils – Restricted airflow forces the compressor to overheat, triggering a safety shutdown.
- Failed evaporator fan motor – Without air circulation, the evaporator cannot absorb heat, so the freezer and fridge warm up.
- Faulty temperature sensor – The board receives incorrect temperature data and believes cooling is insufficient.
- Bad start relay – The compressor never receives the high‑voltage kick needed to start, leaving the system idle.
- Improper door seal – Warm air infiltrates the cabinet, raising the interior temperature and causing the error.
Repair Cost Estimate
| Part | Approx. Cost (USD) | Labor (if hired) |
|---|---|---|
| Evaporator fan motor | $45‑$80 | $120‑$150 |
| Temperature sensor | $12‑$25 | $80‑$100 |
| Start relay | $15‑$30 | $90‑$110 |
| Condenser coil cleaning (service) | — | $80‑$120 |
| Full professional diagnosis | — | $120‑$180 |
A DIY repair typically costs under $100 for parts and a few hours of your time. Hiring a professional adds labor, but guarantees proper refrigerant handling and warranty compliance.
Warranty & Support Info
Whirlpool appliances carry a limited warranty that covers parts and labor for 12 months from the purchase date, or 24 months for the sealed system (compressor). If your refrigerator is still under warranty, call Whirlpool Customer Care at 1‑866‑698‑2538. Provide the model number (found on the interior wall or door jamb) and the error code SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING. The support representative can schedule a service appointment and may approve a replacement part without charge.
For out‑of‑warranty units, the above cost estimates apply. Always keep receipts for parts; many retailers offer a 30‑day return window in case the part does not resolve the issue.
Preventive Maintenance Tips
- Clean condenser coils twice a year using a coil brush or low‑pressure vacuum.
- Check door seals monthly; replace any gasket that shows cracks or loss of flexibility.
- Defrost the freezer regularly if ice builds beyond ¼ inch; excess ice blocks the evaporator fan.
- Run the fridge at least 15 minutes after a power outage to allow the compressor to re‑establish proper pressure.
- Keep the ambient temperature around the unit between 65 °F and 85 °F; extreme heat stresses the compressor.
Following these habits reduces the likelihood of the SYMPTOM‑NOT‑COOLING error recurring.
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